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At the intersection of beauty and health, youth and old age, the body and self-esteem, cosmetics challenge science, economics, territories, social norms, and practices in order to: 1) identify the spatial, socioeconomic, and symbolic domains of beauty, their key players, their mechanisms, and the evolution of practices since the 1950s; 2) understand the evolution of social and generational norms regarding skin pigmentation and its mechanisms, and propose innovative molecules and skin models; 3) establish objective and subjective benefit-risk ratios and develop an informational tool for cosmetovigilance.

The Issues

The goal is to refine the analysis of the social and cultural models of “eternal youth” and “perfect skin” that underpin a major economic sector in France—one that faces international competition and is subject to questions regarding health risks. To achieve this, we must understand the mechanisms of pigmentation and the perceptions that industry stakeholders have of these products; expand the “cosmetotheque” of cosmetic knowledge and expertise (cosmetope); enhance cosmetovigilance tools; develop an analytical framework for products; and propose innovative skin models.

Interdisciplinarity

The project draws on a unique team that brings together the following disciplines from three research clusters (Social Sciences and Humanities, Chemistry and Biology, and Physical and Social Sciences): history, management, psychology, information and communication sciences, chemistry and biology, pharmacy, and public health. The approach is highly interdisciplinary, as the project was designed with a comprehensive and integrated perspective. Each theme or topic addressed closely combines the knowledge and expertise of different disciplines. For example, skin pigmentation is examined in terms of its historical and social aspects as well as its molecular, biological, and chemical aspects.

The site's structure...

The project establishes Grenoble as a hub for a new topic in an innovative and competitive field, combining basic and applied research, with significant potential both scientifically and in terms of industrial partnerships. It positions the University of Grenoble Alpes at the forefront of innovative research—in terms of methodology, the topics addressed, and opportunities for joint initiatives with socio-economic stakeholders in the sector and the academic consortium. It fosters original interdisciplinary collaborations that provide an opportunity to rethink traditional disciplinary approaches.

... and its international visibility

With its interdisciplinary approach, the project is unprecedented both nationally and internationally. It brings together a consortium of national, European, and international researchers affiliated with the partner universities of the University of Grenoble Alpes. The project will bring recognition to the site through the expertise it has mobilized and can mobilize—both theoretical and experimental—by combining disciplinary perspectives rarely brought together on a topic more traditionally associated with other regions. This is an opportunity to make Grenoble a leading center in this field, fostering new ideas and applications stemming from both its academic capabilities and its close ties with industry partners in the sector.